Arrecife, Lanzarote, Canary Islands

This is the easternmost of the Canary Islands, about 73 miles off the coast of Africa and 700 miles from the Iberian Peninsula. It’s 327 square miles and has about 147,000 inhabitants (not including the tourists). Up until the 1960’s the main industries were fishing, agriculture, raising goats and harvesting salt. Now 80% of the jobs are tourist related. Our tour bus took us to the other side of this dry island, past small villages of white washed homes and barren areas of crops growing in lava fields. We entered the Timanfaya National Park (“Fire Mountains”), an area that saw the eruption of over 100 volcanoes just 300 years ago. The red and black landscape was eerie – rugged black lava that poured down the mountains over a six year period and buried everything in sight. We visited an area where we could touch the rocks that were still too hot to hold! Dry bushes would combust in just a few seconds, and geysers of hot water shot into the air. Camels were introduced by farmers as working animals and we saw them taking hundreds of tourists up the hills in convoys. We drove along the rugged coast and saw how the island had grown with the flow of lava. Wineries dot the landscape, even in these inhospitable conditions. Creatively, they have carved eerie bowl-shaped pits into the island’s lava-filled valleys to capture and retain water so the vines can grow. We had the chance to taste the wine. Back at the ship, we took a shuttle into town and walked through the markets and small narrow streets. The people of Lanzarote have been careful to preserve its beauty and not let tourism ‘get the upper hand”!

“Occasionally in life there are those moments of unutterable fulfillment which cannot be completely explained by those symbols called words. Their meanings can only be articulated by the inaudible language of the heart.” –Martin Luther King, Jr.

Tenerife - day two

A wide beautifully paved bikeway led us six miles along the coast from the ship's port to the seaside village of San Andres. A sleepy picturesque town of colorful stucco homes and narrow little streets and cafes. While off the coast of Africa, we were certainly in Europe where men gather, hang out and gossip away their day. Very provincial and delightful. A short ride further, led us to a mile long white sandy beach. Parking our bikes, we strolled through the cool Atlantic waters and had our picnic.

On the way back to town, we passed a billboard advertising the Barcelona World Race Decathalon, depicting the modes of transportation in the race with contestants exiting subway cars with their "folding bikes" just like ours!

Back in Tenerife, we gathered at McDonalds; our European stop for free wi-fi. What a beautiful city - white boulevards, outdoor cafes, parks, monuments, palm trees.

Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Canary Islands

The island of Tenerife is off the coast of Moroccan sub Sahara, the largest of the ten Canary Islands and part of Spain, just 1200 miles away. Our first day of our overnight stop came as a big surprise. Beyond being a big tourist destination for Europeans, Mt. Tiede volcanic wonder dominates the island. Our bus climbed 8,000 feet up a windy forested highway to lunar-like craters and towering lava formations. Even higher was the snowcapped view of Mt. Tiede at 13,000 feet. We stopped to view the stunningly beautiful vistas 50 miles around. We trekked around the National Park before our bus continued down the mountain, and into the clouds to the seaside town of Puerto de la Cruz. This cute tourist village was filled with European outdoor cafes and pedestrian walking streets. The beaches were black lava rock with strong waves crashing on the shore. Needless to say, there were only brave surfers out in the water.
There are only two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as though everything is a miracle. Albert Einstein

Dakar, Senegal

Upon arrival, we travelled by ferry to Goree Island. An idyllic small island of narrow sand streets, and stucco houses, there is a deeper story of horror and black roots. Beginning in the 15th century and continuing to 1848, Europeans gathered Africans for selection and sale. Families were divided, women were raped, and the ill were thrown into the shark infested waters. An astonishing 15 million left on ships from this island alone, bound to be slaves in the Americas. We walked through a slave house, viewed the foot and neck shackles, saw the holding rooms and were humbled by the story told to us. We then poured out into the village streets and talked to residents who live amidst this history. It was an awakening to see life continuing on. A fellow chatted to us on a street corner about how he is a teacher of Brazilian slave dance and music; returning his slave cultural heritage from the New World. We hope to learn from this action against humanity. As we took the ferry back to the city of Dakar, we were surrounded by young men who wanted to sell us everything from wood carvings to sand drawings. This was definitely a larger more developed country than The Gambia, with a bustling downtown, busy port and modern amenities. Both countries we visited were over 90% Muslim.

We wander for distraction, but we travel for fulfillment- Hilaire Beloc

Banjul, The Gambia

This is the smallest country on the African continental mainland. It’s a long skinny country, surrounded on all sides by Senegal, with the River Gambia running through the middle. It’s just 50 miles across and 200 miles long. This country is left alone by colonial powers as unfortunately it has few resources. Stephen had been corresponding with a young Jewish professor named Josh Scheinert, who is teaching at the Faculty of Law at the University of Gambia and is one of only two Jews in the country (long story…) and so he met us early this morning at the pier. He was a recent law graduate from Toronto, spending a year here helping set up the program. (We left him with a Passover kit of matzah, hagaddahs, gefilte fish, matzah ball soup and latke mixes!). Josh gave us a real insight to what life was like in Banjul (sporadic electricity, etc). We walked through the narrow hectic streets of carts and sellers, took local transportation to a huge open air market, a fishing village and a small (950 kids) elementary school. We posed as educators from America, and the principal took us through each classroom where the children learned by rote to spell and read. The Gambia offered us a great introduction to the chaotic emerging Africa. People were extremely friendly and men and women were dressed in beautiful colorful robes everywhere we looked. Thank you, Josh, for an incredible day.
We don’t stop playing because we grow old. We grow old because we stop playing.
-George Bernard Shaw

Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde

This island-country is located about 350 miles off the western coast of Africa. We docked at one of ten volcanic islands. Cape Verde became an important watering station, then sugar cane plantation site and later a major slave trade center. Now it’s a nation that lacks resources and has severe droughts. Ours was the only ship in port, about a mile from the main town. We rode into town on our bikes once again and were pleasantly pleased with what we found. Mindelo is a port town in the northern part of the island of Sao Vincent. The harbor is mountainous, clean, quaint and inviting. The architecture was clearly influenced by the Portuguese, with bright pastel colors and cobblestone streets. Population is African, white Portuguese, Spanish and Italian and the official language is Portuguese. We visited the fish and vegetable markets, where women brought their goods in baskets balanced on their heads. People didn’t harass us, nor did we see any begging (people had erroneously told us that would happen!)

At Sea

We are now in our third day at sea before we arrive at our next port, Cape Verde. Luckily, the Prinsendam is gently gliding across the calm South Atlantic – almost no swaying at all. One more day, and one more time change. What are we doing all day? Our time actually goes by quickly. We can pick from taking Spanish lessons, computer courses, lectures on Africa, culinary classes, exercise classes, watercolor instruction, bridge games, etc. There seems to be something for everyone. We are sure to walk our 12 laps around the teak deck (3 miles) every day, to work off all the good food we’re eating. And, there’s no lack of that! Everyone we have met is a frequent cruiser, with so many having circumvented the globe more than once. People are friendly and open to meeting and chatting with one another. The Rabbi and his wife have taken to organizing shore excursions for those interested and we plan on joining them in port.
Small at 37,000 tons and 800 passengers, the 4.5 star ship was built for long distance cruising and ocean waters. Our cabin is large with lots of storage; even room for our fold up bikes in our walk-in closet. (There are even seven additional bikes on board for crew use.) The well stocked multi room library also carries magazines and DVDs for cabin viewing. Internet is sporadic and slow unfortunately. Entertainment is varied – we’ve seen a comedian, dancers, singers, a ventriloquist, “Mo-town” trio, and an impersonator. Some are good, and some are not so good! But, all in-all, we’ve settled in….

Bridgetown, Barbados

We arrived into port very early, ahead of the many ships already at the pier. Among them “The World”, the wellknown residence ship. We biked the long pier and busy roads into the city. It was quite treacherous, especially since they were driving on the opposite side of the road! Narrow and one-way streets, kept us anxious – not to be hit! We found the oldest synagogue in the “new world” – it opened in 1685. This Sephardic shul was beautiful ly restored and still held weekly services for the 70 Jews who live on the island. An ancient cemetery and adjacent museum told the story of the first Jews who came over from Portugal and Spain and their influence in the spice and sugar trade. Bridgetown was a bustling city, filled with shoppers, markets, banks and stores. Back on board, we got ready for the evening Shabbat services led by the resident rabbi. There were about 40 people who attended, including six others born in Amsterdam! It was an instant connection…. Now, we have four days at sea, as we head over the ocean to Cape Verde and then onto West Africa.
p.s. it was GREAT talking with Nancy & Adam today in Austin. Naz even gave us a little “hello mimi, hello pops” – priceless… Sorry we missed Jonas & Nava!

Fort de France, Martinique

The Prinsendam glided in to our dock at this bustling little city. Off came the bikes. This country, like Guadeloupe, is one of four municipal extensions of France. Streets are narrow and the traffic finally slows for an extended lunch. Following advice from a welcoming tourism official, we caught a ferry to a quieter beach area and village about 20 minutes down the coast. We now have concluded that...much of these islands are quite hilly; a little much for our deux bicyclettes rouge. So after a while, we made our way by return ferry back to town; visiting the vegetable market and internet hamburger cafe. The island has a mix of French and a few Canadian tourists; drawn by the quiet ambiance of this less sophisticated island outpost of France.
The bigger story today is we await word on "Match Day" for Adam when he learns which hospital he will begin working at. The contenders are Austin, Palo Alto, Denver, Washington and New York... and the winner is.... AUSTIN!!! Hurray Hurray!!!!!

Terre en Haute, Gaudeloupe

We arrived in a typical tropical rain storm, that soon gave way to brilliant blue skies and puffy white clouds. Our ship pulled into a cove off this little island, surrounded by small white sailboats. We were the only cruise ship in the harbor, and we could see this would be a quaint sleepy little French village. We brought our bikes on the tender again and headed off through town. It was just adorable with little cafes, artist shops and small homes. We rode along the coast, up and down the hills to a small hotel at the far end of the island. The beach was deserted, but the view was spectacular and the water crystal clear and turquoise. It was a hilly ride back into Les Saintes. Not many people around – mostly French tourists, locals and our ship guests. Just delightful!

St. Barts

After two peaceful days at sea, we arrived this morning at St. Barts (France). A beautifully picturesque island - very hilly, dotted with white houses and red roofs. What struck us first were the number of enormous private yachts dotting the coves and waterfront. A very clean island, good roads, expensive shops and cafes. We took our folding bikes along and rode up and down the coastal roads. Unfortunately the hills were so steep, we did have to turn back a few times. We did find Shell Beach - which was just out of this world.

We've boarded the Prinsendam!

Yes, here we are, on board! Awaiting departure - looking around, getting to check out our fellow passengers and finding our way. We were lucky enough to have been upgraded to an outside cabin - complete with sitting area, walk-in closet and beautiful layout. I think we'll be very comfortable for the next couple of months... stay tuned. First stop is St. Barts in a couple of days.

Getting ready...

In just twelve days, we'll begin our long voyage across the ocean, to Israel, and back again. We stop in 37 ports in a variety of countries, that include the following: Saint Barthelemy, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Barbados, Cape Verde, Gambia, Senegal, Canary Islands, Morocco, Spain, Italy, Montenegro, Croatia, Egypt (??), Israel, Turkey, Greece, Portugal and back to the USA. Whew! what to pack? what to bring? who will we meet? what will we encounter? learn?

Hope you'll follow us along the way.... as we traverse the globe once again.