Last Day at Sea

We’ve travelled for 62 days and over 17,000 miles visiting 34 ports. From our little apartment at sea, we walked out many mornings into a world far different from ours. Riding our bikes, walking through back streets or travelling down the road further away, we discovered warm smiles from people with different religions, colors and limitations. But we found the same desire to love the things that are important. How simple could the road of mankind be if we weren’t spun daily by those with terrifying agendas and media who disperse ever changing sound bites that keep us off-balance.

Our nine weeks floating around has seen many changes. Initially we had to change course away from our Egypt stops because of the revolution only to “sneak” in during a quiet moment before unrest began again. We sailed carefully by Libya in turmoil, careful to remain 100 miles off the coast. After leaving Morocco, a Marrakesh café was blown up where our ship friends had enjoyed a coffee a few days earlier. From CNN International, we learned of the Mississippi Delta floods and Central USA Tornados on the very route we would have travelled at the same time as this trip. We learned of the Japanese nuclear disaster that occurred because of incompetence and continued its devastation because of leaders trying to save face. Our cabin television has begun to blare the 18 month coverage of the Presidential candidates as if we deserve to be sidetracked by this sporting event. And the memory and discussion of 9-11 continues on, deservedly.

To Miriam and I, this has been a Grand Journey. It gave me a time of reflection and solitude following the loss of my Mother. It has also given us continued times of celebration on how fortunate we are to have three families that are our children. They are six sensitive loving adults who all are successfully pursuing their own joy and wrapping us into their lives. There is not a day at sea that we do not receive words and pictures and on land in each of our stops, we have jumped up and down at phone booths talking with them and our three sweet grand children. We have also been gratified that Harvey has some reprieve from his daily pain and Carol continues to have her same enthusiastic voice. But we have also been saddened news of the death of Uncle Norman, and by the battles of our friend Lori Feldman and by Uncle George Grant. We wish them and their families complete healing.

Life is unfolding as best it can and we continue to be grateful for what we have. We look forward to seeing family and friends and walking the meadows of HydeAway Farm.

Funchal, Madeira, Portugal

Our last stop was certainly a treat. We were to have a short day with a departure time of 2 p.m., but at 8 this morning the captain announced our extended stay, not leaving until 4:30 p.m. The weather was superb, so we headed out for a long walk to the base of the cable car. We were the first ones up the steep ride that took us over the city, gardens and caverns below. The scenic town of Monte was at the top and we had a great vista over the whitewashed homes with red tile roofs below. We took the famous wicker basket sleigh ride back down the mountain – commandeered by two men in white suits and hats, who rode the wooden slates of the sleigh as we sped down the slippery roads for the ten minute ride. Crazy! Together with Karen and Guy, we walked down the rest of the way on the very steep winding roads to the center of town.

Funchal was a delight – a clean, well planned beautiful city. We were lucky to be there on this day, as it was the start of the annual flower festival! The city was lush with loads of exotic flowers and stalls selling plants, bulbs and seeds. The center walkways were decorated with ornate floral arrangements meticulously laid out by gardeners, and costumed men and women performed music and dances in the streets. We enjoyed our walk around the shops and particularly noted how many shoe shops there were. We later learned that the Portuguese are infatuated with shoes!

As we set sail tonight we realized it would be seven days before we saw land once again – sailing on to the “new world”, Ft. Lauderdale….

Cadiz/Seville, Spain

We boarded a small bus at Cadiz portside for our tour to Seville ninety minutes away. We entered this stately city, with its Moorish and Roman origins and architecture. The cobblestone boulevards were huge – void of cars and only available to light rail, pedestrians and horse and buggies. Our first stop was the royal palace and gardens – whose architecture was mostly Arabic – with its mosaics, archways and tile work. Although the Christians took over power in Seville in 1248, they admired the Moorish style. The castle is still used today by the Spanish royal family for weddings and huge gatherings.

Right outside the walls of the castle was the Jewish quarter – a maze of small streets and squares. The Jews provided the financing for all the lavish buildings in the center of the city. After their expulsion in 1492, all the synagogues were destroyed. We didn’t find out if there was still any Jewish presence…

We crossed the square into the largest Gothic cathedral in the world – a monstrosity of church which had at one time been a mosque. We had never seen anything like it – giant pillars, gold inlaid Biblical imagery)! The surprise inside, was a monument built to hold the remains of Christopher Columbus (his orders were to never be buried on Spanish soil – thus his coffin is on a pedestal held by four statues).

Back outside we noticed women and young girls all dressed in flamenco style dresses – beautifully put together outfits with hairpieces, shoes and jewelry to match. Men were also all dressed in suits. Today was the Fiesta of Seville and everyone was heading across town to the fair grounds. We decided to follow people for the mile walk – all who were converging to the site in horse drawn carriages, buses, taxis and on foot. What a wonderfully festive feeling – amazing site to see. No two dresses were alike and everyone (babies and little girls alike) were dressed for this occasion. We only had a short glance into the fair, but could see the thousands of guests eating, drinking and dancing.

Upon our return to Cadiz, and a Spanish dinner on board the ship, we returned to explore the medieval town of Cadiz. It was a magical maze of carless cobblestone streets, will small shops and central plazas – a place to gather, mingle and drink a cup of coffee. Our late departure certainly allowed us to have a great “taste” of Spain!

Motril, Spain

Early morning rough waters entering the port of Motril caused the Captain to abort our arrival. It was a disappointment to many as the Alhambra in the inland city of Grenada was a highlight.
As the ship sailed on, later in the day we had a surprise daylight crossing out into the Atlantic with Gibraltar on the north side. Close enough to get a good view from upper deck, our geographer, Frank, provided us historical commentary.
The added bonus was arriving in our next port, Cadiz, early evening instead of the next day. Hopping off, we strolled the wonderful narrow cobblestone streets of this mid size city as the sun set.

Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy

We were barely on our bikes when the overcast skies began to rain down on us. Locking our bikes, we opted to walk the city. We expected a small town and what we found was a sophisticated old city with brand name shops and historic and classical buildings. Once the capital of the Kingdom of Sardinia, the port is amongst the largest in the Med and hence is a center of business and culture. Like all the other Italian cities we have visited, the many tree lined squares and quaint plazas were surrounded with outdoor cafes, pizza bars and gelato stands. But, once again, the shops lock up at 1 p.m. for the daily “siesta”, and everything comes to a halt.

Tonight, we’ve been invited by Captain Schoonerbeck to join him and the other Dutch officers, in the captain’s quarters, to celebrate the Dutch Queen’s birthday. Invited guests are Dutch passengers on board! Stephen will have to find someone to speak English with-perhaps the barman. The dining room has been decorated with red, white and blue flags, complete with windmills and “klompen”. Miriam feels right at home…

Royal Wedding at Sea

A sea day with a difference: Our ship was transformed into a British Celebration with the wedding day of Will and Kate. Early morning began with a briefing on the Royals followed by a switch to BBC coverage on big screens. British High Tea and cookies were served with the showroom decorated with British flags and regalia. Perhaps 300 passengers attended, of the 2 billion that watched worldwide. We really are a speck in the sea. Our evening continues with a formal Royal Dance and a Beatles “name that tune event”. If it wasn’t for the Boston Tea Party, our fellow excited American passengers could have had a better chance at being invited to the wedding.

Separately, Carnival Corporation is rarely mentioned as the parent of Holland America, but today there is a celebration onboard of the company’s 100th ship. Today 227,000 passengers on those 100 ships will eat cupcakes and drink free champagne for the record-breaking largest “toast at sea”. Hooray for freebies. Time to follow Carnival stock.

Katakolon/Olympia, Greece

This tiny port on the western Peloponnese is a quiet village ready for local and foreign tourists. The Prinsendam was one of five ships docked here this morning. The ruins of Olympia are located just 20 miles from town, thus its attraction. We took a bus out to the archeological site of the original Olympic Games. Ritualistic games began as long ago as 1000 BC and continued until 393 AD. The games were revived 15 centuries later (1896) and until today, a torch-bearer sets out from Olympia every four years to carry a flame to the games worldwide! It was an expansive site – hard to imagine all that took place at this very spot!

This afternoon we biked along the shores of Katakolon. The long pristine beach was deserted, and we could envision it was full in the summertime with local vacationers filling the many tiny homes along the way. The town streets were lined with tourist shops selling the same Greek souvenirs none of us really need! It was an opportunity to make some phone calls and mail a few postcards before boarding and joining the parade of departing ships as we sailed away.

“Consider how hard it is to change yourself and you’ll understand what little chance you have in trying to change others.”- Jacob M. Braude

Monemvasia, Greece

This tiny rugged island is in the far south of Greece. It’s one of the country’s most alluring little medieval villages inhabited by a small number of residents who travel the pathways on foot in this carless settlement. It’s one of the great benefits of our small ship visiting ports that can handle only smaller passenger numbers.

Unfortunately, after a lot of roaring of engines at daybreak, the Captain advised that inclement weather would not enable him to set anchor. The foggy morning and high seas forced us to sail away without this port stop. Too bad!

Piraeus/Athens, Greece

We shared a cab from the port of Piraeus inland to Athens this morning – equipped with raincoat and sweaters for the cool weather. We had been to Athens in 1971 – 40 years ago –with backpacks, we arrived by deck class on a ferry from Brindisi, Italy! Wow, what a difference ….
Must say, it doesn’t look like Athens has changed much in all that time. We were told how miserable the economy is here, with high unemployment and a dismal future. Apparently, the Greeks had severely misrepresented their financials in applying to the European Union (EU) to meet the minimum requirements. Today the country is in severe financial situation, and major cutbacks are being implemented by the EU.
The hop-on-hop off bus ($42 for 2) allowed us to see all the main attractions of the city although we didn’t venture up to the Acropolis since we could appreciate it from the view below. Tons of touristy shops, all selling the same souvenirs, lined the streets of the Plaka district. It was nice just to get out and walk around, boarding the bus whenever we felt like it. Although we had a late departure from Piraeus, we decided to return to the port around 5:30 p.m., since the weather had turned rainy and cold. We hung out in the port terminal, joining crew and passengers, to capture free internet.

Kusadasi (Ephesus) Turkey

Kusadasi is the resort destination for many Europeans. Sophisticated hotels on cliffs are juxtaposed with winding town streets that are the bazaar selling cheap leather coats, rugs, “genuine fake watches” and useless touristic souvenirs. Most of the passengers loaded up and on return, the ship store suddenly had even more of this stuff in their own makeshift “Turkish Bazaar” on board.
The real attraction down the road twenty miles is Ephesus. We took a tour provided free by our travel agent. Our first stop was at the house of the Virgin Mary, where she was said to have lived the last years of her life. Our Christian friends were unaware of her connection to Turkey but the story of John taking her there as a promise to Jesus on his deathbed seemed plausible. Recent Papal visits there apparently have validated the theory.
Continuing on to Ephesus, we arrived at a stunning archeological site; considered the best preserved archaeological site in the world. Miriam had visited Ephesus on an earlier trip in 1975 and it has remained an indelible experience all these years. (On that original trip, Stephen instead opted to find a Turkish shoe shine box in the Kusadasi Market for his Dad-the brass box is in our Vermont farmhouse today). Ephesus is amazingly complete with a 25,000 seat amphitheater, baths, a great library and more. Later we visited the Museum which had several sculptures and friezes of great detail. This was an incredible visit. We lunched at one of the cliff side luxury hotels where we enjoyed folkloric dancers of “Whirling Dirvishes, spinning at incredible speed. It was a great ending to our two city introduction to modern Turkey and its ancient heritage.

Bodrum, Turkey

This beautiful picturesque bay was a perfect place to ride our bikes once again. The wide sidewalks along the shore were lined with fishing boats and large ferries to take tourists to Greek islands close by. We ventured past the many shops that were just opening, to ride right out of town to the next bay. During the height of the tourist season, this place must be packed – there were tons of restaurants, hotels and clubs with hundreds of chairs set up – ready and waiting. This was still a month or two early though, so we had the beach pretty much to ourselves. Everything was pristinely clean and manicured. We decided to each get a haircut at a local shop! Our ride back to the ship took us past a flea market along the coast. The whitewashed shops and homes, together with the bright blue skies and perfect temperature, made this a really special stop!

Israel - Day Two - Haifa

And now for something different – a segway ride through the streets of Jaffa! After a quick lesson on how to drive a segway, we were off to discover the beautiful seaside ancient town of Jaffa. We were frankly surprised how quickly we learned how to maneuver it! For two hours we drove along the seawall – zigzagging around people, cars, and shops. It was really great fun and we got pretty good at it! Nurit was waiting for us in her cute apartment just one street back from the beach in Tel Aviv, with lunch she had prepared. Off we were again, since Hillel had to see a patient back in Herzaliah, Jennifer, Stephen and I walked the beach near his office. Back again to the apartment for a snack and to pick up our luggage. The trip up to The Port of Haifa was an hour – to return to our ship.
Hurwitz’s – thanks for two terrific days! Of course, we were sad that Jonas, Nava and Raziela were not in Israel (they were spending Passover in Sydney Australia), but glad we had this opportunity to spend such quality time together. Your hospitality is incredible and we hope to reciprocate one day soon!

Israel - Day One Ashdod

What a welcome! There were Jennifer & Hillel to greet us as we arrived into Ashdod port! So great to see them and to begin our two day adventure together. Our first stop was back at their home to visit with Sharon, Jay, Boaz, Eitan and Tzi. The kids have grown so much and showed us all their new rollerblading and bike riding skills. Jennifer prepared a beautiful picnic and we set off north to the western Lower Galilee hilltop of Zippori National Park for lunch and a guided tour, compliments of Adele and Gary. It was a picture perfect day and we enjoyed the great company and magnificent mosaics and archeological ruins. On our drive back home, we stopped to stroll through the town of Zikron Yakov, a hilltop community famous for its wineries and artist shops. We ate a delicious Passover dinner at an outdoor patio, along with the many families and young people enjoying this holiday season together. We arrived back home to be met by Ilan and Sima, who had stopped by to say hello. We were so impressed by Ilan’s latest invention – a meat drying machine made out of a hollowed computer shell!

Cairo -Port Said Egypt Day Two

After breakfast, we were back on the bus for our 20 mile drive to the Sakkara Pyramids and then the ancient capital Memphis. Some of the pyramids are being restored with workers chiseling stone and hauling rock up simple scaffolding. We surmised that their backbreaking work was not so different from the original slave workers. Again walking all over the huge site we were fascinated at how well the hieroglyphics and carvings had survived the nearly 4,000 years. Stephen climbed/crawled down a shaft deep into the heart of a pyramid to see the burial rooms still adorned with wall etchings and paintings.
In Memphis, we were able to walk around a massive 50-60 foot statue of Ramses II and view the Alabaster Sphinx, which is in better condition that the more famous Giza Sphinx. A mandatory stop was one of many Carpet Factories/Schools where we saw children as young as 8 or 9, working away hand tying rugs. It was child labor as we know exists in third world countries. Were these children slaves or young underpaid workers robbed of their youth? The coins we gave them were quickly hidden away. Saddened by what we saw, none of us bought anything.
Later in the day we viewed the Mohammed Ali Alabaster Mosque before returning on a three hour drive to Port Said and our ship. Just before reaching home, we drove along the Suez Canal and saw the new Mubarak Peace Bridge, which we are sure will have a new name when it opens in a few months.
Egypt was a wonderful experience. Few tourists provided an ease of seeing incredible sights unencumbered. Aside from the chaos and poverty of a mid Eastern city, people were happy that we were there on the first days of their new democracy. Our Egypt lecturer on board ship a few days prior to arrival was not as optimistic, in that the upcoming elections may not bring a moderate leadership. In the meantime we were glad we were there, and the anticipated “revolution” that is happening each week since the fall of the government, did not occur today as predicted.
And now as the Prinsendam thrusters are revving up for departure, we are ready for our Exodus and arrival in Israel in the morning.

Passover

We sailed today, past Libya, on our way to Egypt, careful to remain outside the “100 mile no cruise zone”. Our Passover Seder on board tonite was in a private dining room with 140 guests (perhaps 40 of whom were Jewish). Rabbi Starr led the service, with the Captain and his wife joining the festivity. Holland America went all out with porcelain Seder plates complete with all the authentic components from maror and haroseth to manishevitz wine and schmura matzohs . Each table also had beautiful new hagaddahs. It was a wonderful event.

We received the following email from Josh back in The Gambia who had celebrated that African country’s first ever Seder. You’ll recall from our Gambia blog entry, that we brought Josh a Passover kit when we saw him earlier in the voyage. Here’s his update:

Happy Passover from The Gambia! We had quite the seder in Gambia yesterday - 22 people (21 non-Jews). And thanks a supply of Passover goods I was able to treat everyone to the staples - matzoh ball soup, gefilte fish, and matzoh. Well, let's not call it a treat. When it came time to clean up I noticed a collection of matzoh balls on the ground around where most of the Gambians were sitting, talk about being discrete. And they certainly weren't fans of the gefilte fish either. At least they liked my homemade charosset, also the Dean's new favourite word.

It was your typical seder, minus the crowd and the setting. The power was off throughout, and only two of us had experienced Passover seders before. Tom, one of my favourite British gentiles asked the Four Questions. I taught everyone the chorus to Dayenu, always a crowd pleaser. For "Echad Me Yodeah" we took turns singing the English verses in a tune of our own choosing. All four cups were consumed and Eliyahu made quite the detour. And of course, the Afikoman was a hit. Hidden in a mango tree, my friend Dinesh was thrilled to find it and receive his prize of 25 dalasis ($1) and mouse glue.

The time-tested trick of withholding dessert until post-part II of the seder kept most people around to the end; though many of the Gambians bailed after dinner.

Not bad for a West African start to Passover.

Alexandria & Cairo, Egypt Day One

We entered Egypt as part of our Passover celebration with a plan to visit the pyramids and “exodus” to the “promised land”. Fortunately, we are not slaves and Pharaoh is long gone.
Today we left the ship after docking at Alexandria for our two day guided tour ashore. One of the passengers had arranged an eleven passenger private tour that would bring us back to the ship tomorrow evening in Port Said. Our guide introduced the itinerary with a comment that we would need to rearrange our days “as there would likely be a revolution tomorrow”. What he really meant was that crowds may group in Cairo to protest some issues such as better healthcare, education etc. Relieved at his clarification, we settled in to enjoy the new democratic Egypt. Things were calmly normal, although we really had the country to ourselves as tourists are just beginning to arrive. Along with our driver and guide, we had a security guard travel with us, and at times during the two days, we were escorted by a car of tourist police.
After a quick stop in Alexandria to visit new Library and ancient Lighthouse, we proceeded on our 3 hour drive to Cairo down the Nile delta. On arrival, the Pyramids of Giza were before us. We could only pinch ourselves that we were there as we trekked around in the sand. The Sphinx was a bit of a surprise as it is smaller than we had thought. After lunch at a restaurant on the Nile, our afternoon was spent at the Egypt Museum of Antiquities. We were overwhelmed by the massive amount of relics. The highlight was the King Tut collection. We were astonished at how the items were too accessible; people leaning on them and touching everything. Fortunately, little looting occurred during the January overthrow of power. When we stepped outside the museum to board our bus again, before us was the burnt out government building totally damaged during the January uprising.
Our day ended with the amazing Pyramids/Sphinx sound and light show. Overnight was at the Mercure Hotel in view of the pyramids. Our bed seemed to roll as it does on the ship and we were exhausted!

At Sea

Lots to choose from: Lectures on “Weird World Architecture” and “History and Modern Politics of Israel”; Six technology classes sponsored by Windows; Le Cirque New York cooking demonstration in the culinary theater sponsored by Food & Wine; Yoga, Tai Chi and Abs classes. Less exciting is laundry with free washers, dryers, detergent. And there’s more. So tempting to do it all but perhaps best to take a break and get ready for our next marathon group of ports.

Ravenna, Italy

The ship offered a free 25 minute shuttle into town, but we thought it would be a nice bike ride in. The roads were flat, but the two lane highway took us past huge industrial sites, with smokestacks spewing black smoke. This is the industrial north of Italy. After an hour of riding, and hoping we were going the right way after many “turnabouts”, we met a lady on her bike and asked for directions. We followed her straight into the center of Ravenna. It turned out to be a cute medieval town, with cobblestone streets, a massive center square, with many affluent shops. And this town was filled with bike riders! In fact, they had free bike rentals on several corners. We parked ours and walked around – whole families were out for a Saturday walk, a cup of coffee, and to shop at the flea market set up all over town. Since we had a short port stop, we hoped the shuttle bus back to the ship, folding up our bikes and putting them in the baggage hold. We’re ready for our two day voyage to Egypt

Venice, Italy Day Two

With a bit of a growing cold, Miriam joined in on the second day of discovery. We bought a 12 hour Vaporetto boat pass (the local bus system) for $25 per person and headed out with a transfer to Murano Island. This is the home of famous Venetian hand blown glass; proof that if you have one euro to thousands you can take home a piece of crafted glass. The challenge is figuring out which glass is Venetian versus a Chinese similarity. Shopkeepers‘ signs warned of buying authentic. Yesterday, we noticed several Venice shops selling identical leather goods were manned by Asian proprietors. The day was too glorious to be distracted by anything but the incredible scenery. Returning to Venice, we opted to walk a different 90 minute route back from Piazza San Marco to the ship. The view of the Grand Canal as we crossed the Rialto Bridge was spectacular as vaporettos and gondolas raced by. A small pizza ($4.50) and a can of Coke ($4.00) kept us going until our return to the ship at six. Ciao to Venezia

Venice, Italy

At 6:00 a.m. we were on deck for an incredible sail in to the inner harbor. Prinsendam glided into the Venetian lagoon while the city was still asleep, closely past the Piazzo San Marco and the Doge’s Palace. A few hours later, after picking up a map and phone card at the railroad station, we continued our meander through mazes of streets to the Jewish ghetto (Italian for quarter). In a small plaza, we found the community that dates back to the 1600s. Our walking tour guide led us into three of six restored synagogues; each used on a rotating basis by a multilingual Miami Rabbi. Although most of the 450 Venetian Jews no longer live in the Ghetto, there is an active Jewish Community Center with nursery and part time religious school. There is a Jewish Seniors home with 9 “grandmothers”; the top floor recently being converted to a hostel. There is a kosher restaurant nearby. We stopped to chat with a visiting student at the small Chabad center and yeshiva.
Continuing our day in the brisk 60 degree weather, we crossed tiny bridges losing ourselves down streets as narrow as outstretched arms, only to find ourselves back on broader walking streets. Down one narrow walkway, we discovered the just renovated Palazzo Grimani. We walked from one grand room to another, not being able to imagine the wealth of the upper class centuries ago.
Italian school groups and many European tourists filled the streets. Like most of our stops, we were in advance of the cruise season as well. We couldn’t imagine summertime when the crowds increase dramatically.

“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.” –William Arthur Ward

Kotor, Montenegro

A magnificent morning sail up a 53 mile narrow fjord from the Adriatic led us through a series of picturesque bays. Each of five turns was another ancient town hugging the coast. Two hours of sailing led us to majestic Kotor , an ancient walled town. The Republic of Montenegro, with a population of 650,000, is one of seven new countries re-birthed from the old Yugoslavia. Originally built four centuries ago by the Venetians, Kotor continues to be a fairy tale town of tiny squares and narrow streets. From this base, we boarded a small bus for the two hour single lane “serpentine” climb up to a National Park and the old Royal Capital of Cetinje. This near forgotten town is a throwback to post war Europe, and a summer retreat for the people of the coastal towns. Our sail-away took us back through the fjord at sunset and the Captain surprised us with a circumnavigation of an island monastery in the middle of one of the bays. What an incredible day of surprises and an introduction to a country subject to massive civil wars not that many years ago. It was incredibly quaint with stunning beauty. Montenegro is certainly a “see before it’s discovered, destination”.

“Seek and you shall find. Knock and the doors shall be open. Ask and it shall be written, when the walls coming tumbling down…”

Siracusa, Sicily, Italy

Sicily is an island of 6 million people and just four miles across from the mainland of Italy. The day was brilliant sunshine and warm once again. Being Sunday, the streets were deserted and the shops closed. We joined a private tour in a convoy of three vans and headed out of the city to the countryside. Stopping along the way (for a delicious chocolate croissant!) we could see Mt. Etna in the distance, spewing a white cloud of smoke. Our driver told us that last night, fire was seen coming from the top, and lava was pouring down the sides – the first time in three years! Our next stop was a village (Taormina) perched on the very top of a mountain. It was filled with Italian families out for a stroll. One could see it was a fancy retreat – with expensive shops lining the streets. We walked into a number of squares, flanked by churches, where everyone gathered for a Sunday stroll. From here we drove up a winding road and climbed 7,000 feet to the foot of the volcano. Along the way, we could hear sand hitting the roof of the car – it was debris coming from the volcano! When we got out for a picture, we could hear the roar from the eruption – pretty scary! We could see where the lava had flowed to in 1983, 2000 and most recently, 2003. (This is a picture of a house buried in the last eruption.) A cable car takes visitors right to the cone. A chairlift even takes skiers up in the winter – amazing. But with no time for such danger, we headed back to the ship. Hundreds were strolling on the port promenade waiting for this tiny dock’s first ship departure of the season. While Michael Corleone introduced us to Sicily, we leave with a better understanding of this drop of land off the boot of Italy. Ciao!

“Man should forget his anger before he lies down to sleep”- Mohandas Gandhi

Lipari, Aeolian Islands, Sicily, Italy

The Prinsendam maneuvered between several of the seventeen Aeoliian Islands this morning. Out on deck, we watched the steam rise from a still active volcano on nearby Stromboli Island. Laying down anchor, we tendered ashore at Lipari, our ninth port using the bikes. This little Sicilian port town stretches along two inlets separated by a mountain. We biked through a tunnel to another fishing village on the next cove. The narrow cobblestone streets were barely wide enough for the Vespa scooters and very tiny Fiat cars. We walked along a black volcanic sand beach and picked up a handful of sand. (We have been collecting envelopes of soil from every stop to add to a collection for Naz’s Montesorri school.) Ancient stucco and colorful stone homes filled the town- we thought only the Disney set designers could create and imagine! Washing hangs everywhere from second floor balconies. Again, we are clearly “off the beaten track”, although “room for rent” signs suggest that they are ready to welcome travelers arriving by island ferries during the summer. Another nutella gelato, a few (attempted) phone calls and we were ready to sail away. This evening we’ll be out on deck as we transverse the Straits of Messina that bring us past the toe of the boot of Italy on our left and the big island of Sicily on our right, for our landing in Siracusa, Sicily in the morning.

“I long to accomplish a great and noble task, but it is my chief duty to accomplish small tasks as if they were great and noble.” –Helen Keller

Rome, Italy

Forty years have passed since we were last here, laden with our backpacks. The American Express office we walked by was our place to pick up mail, but today it is simply a travel agency. What hasn’t changed are the bustle of Vespas and little Fiat 500s. While preseason, the streets are filled with tourists and Italian school groups. Massive archaeological remnants of the Roman Empire are everywhere. Roma is still enchanting.
Today we were gifted by our travel agent with a full day tour that was a twist on the expected. Entitled “Roman Holiday”, it blended the sights of the famous Katherine Hepburn/ Gregory Peck movie. Our 90 minute coach ride from the Civitavecchia port dropped us at the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and Pantheon before we finally took a break from our stroll at a 60+ flavor gelato stand- all actual points from the film. Next was a stop at Palazzo Brancaccio, which was where the opening scene of the movie took place. Finally a break, for an enormous traditionally Italian lunch at Cecilla Metella Restaurant, where the two actors would go to hide from paparazzi. The afternoon included catching a glimpse of the Colosseum, Vatican and Roman Forum before ending the day, exhausted, at the pier.

“Adults are always asking kids what they want to be when they grow up ‘cause they’re looking for ideas.” –Paula Poundstone

La Spezia, Italy

This well-known area of Cinque Terre was just an amazing stop. With two other couples, we walked through La Spezia to board the local train for a nine minute ride to the first town of Riomaggiore. How quaint! Perched on the side of a cliff, the multicolored homes and shops were just beautiful. We walked for 20 minutes along “Love Alley” to the next town of Manarola – a pathway that hugged the coast and gave us a wonderful vantage point of the rugged coast and other towns. One town was more beautiful than the next! We walked around town and re-board the train for a 5 min trip to Corniglia, then on to Vernazza, just 5 more minutes down the line. Wow – small alleyways with wash hanging out on the line, cafes with bright umbrellas and stone staircases. We completed our day with the final train to the beachside town of Monterosso al Mare. We were fortunate that the weather was stunning and our timing was great as we avoided the busy tourist season which begins mid April, when thousands each day fill the towns. The perfect day ended with a piece of square pizza and a gelatto!

There are high spots in all of our lives, and most of them have come about through encouragement from someone else. – George M. Adams

Mahon, Menora, Spain

What a piece of paradise! The ship meandered into port along an inland river to the town of Mahon. The town was perched high above the port, with a steep set of stairs leading to the center of town. Restaurants and shops lined the lower town, with loads of sail boats parked along the water. We biked the winding hilly road out of town about 7 miles to a small village called En Grau. The countryside was quiet, with large beautiful villas seen in the distance on hilltops. The town was so picturesque – whitewashed homes and winding streets. It was definitely a summer vacation spot, but right now it was totally deserted! A national park with hiking trails and large beach were the main attractions. We biked back to Mahon, and up the steep road to the town. Cobblestone streets, town squares, old churches, stone arches and quaint narrow streets – a perfect place to walk around and enjoy. Unfortunately by now it was mid-day and everything was closed and streets deserted for the afternoon siesta. Our sailout was just gorgeous, with magnificent views of the ancient fortresses built at the entrance to the river.

Cartagena, Spain

Our ship docked alongside the marina in the center of town, so we headed off along the tree-lined bike path. What we found was a 13th century walled city. A broad esplanade along the port flanks the striking new archaeological museum. We continued to ride by the university and the ornate architectural office buildings. The wide pedestrian streets featured cafes, boutiques, offices and banks - prosperity seemed to abound. Parking our bikes gave us a chance to have a couple of cappuccinos and wi-fi access.
Continuing on to surrounding residential areas, we discovered an orange tree-lined street. The city workers were harvesting thousands of them. Not believing their advice that they were inedible, we tasted one. They were right. Sailing out of the beautiful enclosed harbor we were amazed at the several well preserved Roman fortresses. It was a delightful day in this small Spanish coastal city.

Happiness is a butterfly which, when pursued is always just beyond your grasp but which, if you will sit down quietly, may alight upon you. –Nathaniel Hawthorne

Casablanca, Morocco

We headed off early for the center of the city. With our map in hand, and complicated directions, we managed to find Bet El Synagogue behind a wall and hidden by trees. The door was slightly ajar, and when we poked our heads in, the security guard welcomed us to step inside. We left our bags by the door and entered the courtyard and sanctuary. A bar mitzvah boy was at the bema and about 60 people were in attendance. Stephen was welcomed with a talis and ushered to the front near the bema and I went upstairs to sit with the handful of women. It was beautiful inside complete with chandeliers. The chanting was unrecognizable to us, with Sephardic tunes. The courtyard was set up for a lavish Kiddush lunch. We learned there are still about 3,000 Jews in Casablanca and they are well respected and get along well with their Arab neighbors. We walked down the street and came upon another shul hidden from view, called Abraham Mamoun– it was rather run down and had only about 20 men in attendance. From there we made our way to the walled Medina – a crowded market place with tiny streets filled with vendors of clothes, leather goods, vegetables and jewelry. We found our way around by speaking French although people were most hospitable and helpful. For something different, we walked through the Hyatt Hotel, an upscale Arab design – whoa – pretty swanky and a world away from what was going on outside!

Agadir, Morocco

This modern city in southwestern Morocco, suffered a huge earthquake in 1960, where 15,000 people lost their lives . There was nothing left of the old town after the quake, but it has since been completely rebuilt. We negotiated with a taxi driver to take us out to the market and medina of Taroudant, just over an hour drive. We passed huge modern suburban apartment complexes along a beautifully landscaped highway. The winds were extreme today, with sand from the Sahara Desert blowing straight across the road. The countryside was dotted with hothouses growing vegetables, goat shepherds walking the fields, and small towns with dusty shops. Taroudant is surrounded by an impressive 7-foot town wall made of local red clay. Our taxi driver led us through the souk and maze-like streets where vendors were selling all sorts of day-to-day products, spices, vegetables, rugs, and pots. He lent us his phone so we could call Jonas before Shabbat! He told us he had to get us back to the ship since prayer-time was at 12:30. So off we were again, racing along back to Agadir. When we returned to the ship, we were surprised to have lunch at a fish barbeque on deck, with our chef carving a 380 lb tuna, which was caught and brought on board yesterday in the Canary Islands. Delicious!

Arrecife, Lanzarote, Canary Islands

This is the easternmost of the Canary Islands, about 73 miles off the coast of Africa and 700 miles from the Iberian Peninsula. It’s 327 square miles and has about 147,000 inhabitants (not including the tourists). Up until the 1960’s the main industries were fishing, agriculture, raising goats and harvesting salt. Now 80% of the jobs are tourist related. Our tour bus took us to the other side of this dry island, past small villages of white washed homes and barren areas of crops growing in lava fields. We entered the Timanfaya National Park (“Fire Mountains”), an area that saw the eruption of over 100 volcanoes just 300 years ago. The red and black landscape was eerie – rugged black lava that poured down the mountains over a six year period and buried everything in sight. We visited an area where we could touch the rocks that were still too hot to hold! Dry bushes would combust in just a few seconds, and geysers of hot water shot into the air. Camels were introduced by farmers as working animals and we saw them taking hundreds of tourists up the hills in convoys. We drove along the rugged coast and saw how the island had grown with the flow of lava. Wineries dot the landscape, even in these inhospitable conditions. Creatively, they have carved eerie bowl-shaped pits into the island’s lava-filled valleys to capture and retain water so the vines can grow. We had the chance to taste the wine. Back at the ship, we took a shuttle into town and walked through the markets and small narrow streets. The people of Lanzarote have been careful to preserve its beauty and not let tourism ‘get the upper hand”!

“Occasionally in life there are those moments of unutterable fulfillment which cannot be completely explained by those symbols called words. Their meanings can only be articulated by the inaudible language of the heart.” –Martin Luther King, Jr.

Tenerife - day two

A wide beautifully paved bikeway led us six miles along the coast from the ship's port to the seaside village of San Andres. A sleepy picturesque town of colorful stucco homes and narrow little streets and cafes. While off the coast of Africa, we were certainly in Europe where men gather, hang out and gossip away their day. Very provincial and delightful. A short ride further, led us to a mile long white sandy beach. Parking our bikes, we strolled through the cool Atlantic waters and had our picnic.

On the way back to town, we passed a billboard advertising the Barcelona World Race Decathalon, depicting the modes of transportation in the race with contestants exiting subway cars with their "folding bikes" just like ours!

Back in Tenerife, we gathered at McDonalds; our European stop for free wi-fi. What a beautiful city - white boulevards, outdoor cafes, parks, monuments, palm trees.

Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Canary Islands

The island of Tenerife is off the coast of Moroccan sub Sahara, the largest of the ten Canary Islands and part of Spain, just 1200 miles away. Our first day of our overnight stop came as a big surprise. Beyond being a big tourist destination for Europeans, Mt. Tiede volcanic wonder dominates the island. Our bus climbed 8,000 feet up a windy forested highway to lunar-like craters and towering lava formations. Even higher was the snowcapped view of Mt. Tiede at 13,000 feet. We stopped to view the stunningly beautiful vistas 50 miles around. We trekked around the National Park before our bus continued down the mountain, and into the clouds to the seaside town of Puerto de la Cruz. This cute tourist village was filled with European outdoor cafes and pedestrian walking streets. The beaches were black lava rock with strong waves crashing on the shore. Needless to say, there were only brave surfers out in the water.
There are only two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as though everything is a miracle. Albert Einstein

Dakar, Senegal

Upon arrival, we travelled by ferry to Goree Island. An idyllic small island of narrow sand streets, and stucco houses, there is a deeper story of horror and black roots. Beginning in the 15th century and continuing to 1848, Europeans gathered Africans for selection and sale. Families were divided, women were raped, and the ill were thrown into the shark infested waters. An astonishing 15 million left on ships from this island alone, bound to be slaves in the Americas. We walked through a slave house, viewed the foot and neck shackles, saw the holding rooms and were humbled by the story told to us. We then poured out into the village streets and talked to residents who live amidst this history. It was an awakening to see life continuing on. A fellow chatted to us on a street corner about how he is a teacher of Brazilian slave dance and music; returning his slave cultural heritage from the New World. We hope to learn from this action against humanity. As we took the ferry back to the city of Dakar, we were surrounded by young men who wanted to sell us everything from wood carvings to sand drawings. This was definitely a larger more developed country than The Gambia, with a bustling downtown, busy port and modern amenities. Both countries we visited were over 90% Muslim.

We wander for distraction, but we travel for fulfillment- Hilaire Beloc

Banjul, The Gambia

This is the smallest country on the African continental mainland. It’s a long skinny country, surrounded on all sides by Senegal, with the River Gambia running through the middle. It’s just 50 miles across and 200 miles long. This country is left alone by colonial powers as unfortunately it has few resources. Stephen had been corresponding with a young Jewish professor named Josh Scheinert, who is teaching at the Faculty of Law at the University of Gambia and is one of only two Jews in the country (long story…) and so he met us early this morning at the pier. He was a recent law graduate from Toronto, spending a year here helping set up the program. (We left him with a Passover kit of matzah, hagaddahs, gefilte fish, matzah ball soup and latke mixes!). Josh gave us a real insight to what life was like in Banjul (sporadic electricity, etc). We walked through the narrow hectic streets of carts and sellers, took local transportation to a huge open air market, a fishing village and a small (950 kids) elementary school. We posed as educators from America, and the principal took us through each classroom where the children learned by rote to spell and read. The Gambia offered us a great introduction to the chaotic emerging Africa. People were extremely friendly and men and women were dressed in beautiful colorful robes everywhere we looked. Thank you, Josh, for an incredible day.
We don’t stop playing because we grow old. We grow old because we stop playing.
-George Bernard Shaw

Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde

This island-country is located about 350 miles off the western coast of Africa. We docked at one of ten volcanic islands. Cape Verde became an important watering station, then sugar cane plantation site and later a major slave trade center. Now it’s a nation that lacks resources and has severe droughts. Ours was the only ship in port, about a mile from the main town. We rode into town on our bikes once again and were pleasantly pleased with what we found. Mindelo is a port town in the northern part of the island of Sao Vincent. The harbor is mountainous, clean, quaint and inviting. The architecture was clearly influenced by the Portuguese, with bright pastel colors and cobblestone streets. Population is African, white Portuguese, Spanish and Italian and the official language is Portuguese. We visited the fish and vegetable markets, where women brought their goods in baskets balanced on their heads. People didn’t harass us, nor did we see any begging (people had erroneously told us that would happen!)

At Sea

We are now in our third day at sea before we arrive at our next port, Cape Verde. Luckily, the Prinsendam is gently gliding across the calm South Atlantic – almost no swaying at all. One more day, and one more time change. What are we doing all day? Our time actually goes by quickly. We can pick from taking Spanish lessons, computer courses, lectures on Africa, culinary classes, exercise classes, watercolor instruction, bridge games, etc. There seems to be something for everyone. We are sure to walk our 12 laps around the teak deck (3 miles) every day, to work off all the good food we’re eating. And, there’s no lack of that! Everyone we have met is a frequent cruiser, with so many having circumvented the globe more than once. People are friendly and open to meeting and chatting with one another. The Rabbi and his wife have taken to organizing shore excursions for those interested and we plan on joining them in port.
Small at 37,000 tons and 800 passengers, the 4.5 star ship was built for long distance cruising and ocean waters. Our cabin is large with lots of storage; even room for our fold up bikes in our walk-in closet. (There are even seven additional bikes on board for crew use.) The well stocked multi room library also carries magazines and DVDs for cabin viewing. Internet is sporadic and slow unfortunately. Entertainment is varied – we’ve seen a comedian, dancers, singers, a ventriloquist, “Mo-town” trio, and an impersonator. Some are good, and some are not so good! But, all in-all, we’ve settled in….

Bridgetown, Barbados

We arrived into port very early, ahead of the many ships already at the pier. Among them “The World”, the wellknown residence ship. We biked the long pier and busy roads into the city. It was quite treacherous, especially since they were driving on the opposite side of the road! Narrow and one-way streets, kept us anxious – not to be hit! We found the oldest synagogue in the “new world” – it opened in 1685. This Sephardic shul was beautiful ly restored and still held weekly services for the 70 Jews who live on the island. An ancient cemetery and adjacent museum told the story of the first Jews who came over from Portugal and Spain and their influence in the spice and sugar trade. Bridgetown was a bustling city, filled with shoppers, markets, banks and stores. Back on board, we got ready for the evening Shabbat services led by the resident rabbi. There were about 40 people who attended, including six others born in Amsterdam! It was an instant connection…. Now, we have four days at sea, as we head over the ocean to Cape Verde and then onto West Africa.
p.s. it was GREAT talking with Nancy & Adam today in Austin. Naz even gave us a little “hello mimi, hello pops” – priceless… Sorry we missed Jonas & Nava!

Fort de France, Martinique

The Prinsendam glided in to our dock at this bustling little city. Off came the bikes. This country, like Guadeloupe, is one of four municipal extensions of France. Streets are narrow and the traffic finally slows for an extended lunch. Following advice from a welcoming tourism official, we caught a ferry to a quieter beach area and village about 20 minutes down the coast. We now have concluded that...much of these islands are quite hilly; a little much for our deux bicyclettes rouge. So after a while, we made our way by return ferry back to town; visiting the vegetable market and internet hamburger cafe. The island has a mix of French and a few Canadian tourists; drawn by the quiet ambiance of this less sophisticated island outpost of France.
The bigger story today is we await word on "Match Day" for Adam when he learns which hospital he will begin working at. The contenders are Austin, Palo Alto, Denver, Washington and New York... and the winner is.... AUSTIN!!! Hurray Hurray!!!!!

Terre en Haute, Gaudeloupe

We arrived in a typical tropical rain storm, that soon gave way to brilliant blue skies and puffy white clouds. Our ship pulled into a cove off this little island, surrounded by small white sailboats. We were the only cruise ship in the harbor, and we could see this would be a quaint sleepy little French village. We brought our bikes on the tender again and headed off through town. It was just adorable with little cafes, artist shops and small homes. We rode along the coast, up and down the hills to a small hotel at the far end of the island. The beach was deserted, but the view was spectacular and the water crystal clear and turquoise. It was a hilly ride back into Les Saintes. Not many people around – mostly French tourists, locals and our ship guests. Just delightful!

St. Barts

After two peaceful days at sea, we arrived this morning at St. Barts (France). A beautifully picturesque island - very hilly, dotted with white houses and red roofs. What struck us first were the number of enormous private yachts dotting the coves and waterfront. A very clean island, good roads, expensive shops and cafes. We took our folding bikes along and rode up and down the coastal roads. Unfortunately the hills were so steep, we did have to turn back a few times. We did find Shell Beach - which was just out of this world.

We've boarded the Prinsendam!

Yes, here we are, on board! Awaiting departure - looking around, getting to check out our fellow passengers and finding our way. We were lucky enough to have been upgraded to an outside cabin - complete with sitting area, walk-in closet and beautiful layout. I think we'll be very comfortable for the next couple of months... stay tuned. First stop is St. Barts in a couple of days.